Burma
 
 
 
Burma
 
Bicyclist, U Bein Bridge, Ammarapura.
Bicyclist, U Bein Bridge, Ammarapura.
Bicyclist, U Bein Bridge, Ammarapura.

Photo Travelogue: Burmese Daze (Burma)

He was watching me. I noticed his shifting eyes at about 4AM, as I sat alone in my grimy hotel room, sweatily typing a story in my boxers, beneath a ceiling fan that rattled in the sultry, pre-monsoon heat. He was in my shoe, p...
 
Backpackology 101
 
Bagan Buledi
Bagan Buledi
Bagan Buledi

The Backpacker’s Manifesto

There were a dozen sagging rear-ends in my face as I plodded up the long, narrow staircase of Shwezendaw Pagoda, trapped behind a Swiss tour group who were ascending at glacial speed. I turned around to a sweeping panorama of B...
 
Adventures in Backpackistan!
 
Rangoon Street Food-8
Rangoon Street Food-8
Rangoon Street Food-8

‘Have You Eaten?’: An Angry Foodie’s Portrait of Burma

It’s likely that you’ve never tried Burmese food, or even seen a Burmese restaurant. There’s a reason for this. Wedged between the three culinary giants China, India, and Thailand, you might expect the cuisine of Burma to be ro...

 
Adventures in Backpackistan!
 
Budgetometer-1
Budgetometer-1
Budgetometer-1

The Budgetometer

I could tell the wealthy-looking French family was alarmed, but I suppose I would be too if a total stranger started following me at uncomfortably close range. The mother shot me a worried look as I edged even closer, breathing...
 
Adventure
 
Human Zoo-2
Human Zoo-2
Human Zoo-2

The Human Zoo

As our motorized canoe sliced through the morning mist, I couldn’t discern the water from the sky. We were sailing through a monochrome plane of grey, with no reference point but the occasional floating lotus leaf, or a few Int...
 
Adventures in Backpackistan!
 
WrongPancakeRaw-4
WrongPancakeRaw-4
WrongPancakeRaw-4

The Wrong Pancake

For this week, I intended on writing a story about terrifying street-food in Rangoon… but then I arrived in the mountain village of Kalaw, and suffered an incident so absurd that I couldn’t resist sharing my tale immediately. T...

 
Adventures in Backpackistan!
 
Layover-3
Layover-3
Layover-3

How to Endure a 14-Hour Layover

The biting winter chill swirled around me as I stepped out of the plane, and I tugged my flimsy jacket close around me. “Ni hao,” smiled the stewardess, “Welcome to Beijing.” The 10 mg of Ambien my friend had given me in New Yo...
 
Adventure
 
SteppingRaw-1
SteppingRaw-1
SteppingRaw-1

Stepping Off The Edge

In the darkness, I could feel my heart pounding. I had been lying in bed for over an hour, staring up at the ceiling of my hotel room, fighting to breathe against the stifling heat of the Burmese monsoon, which hung over me lik...