Pakistan
 
 
 
Culture
 
Karakoram Highway-15a
Karakoram Highway-15a
Karakoram Highway-15a

The Karakoram Highway

When I tell people that my favorite country thus far has been Pakistan, I often receive horrified stares, as if I’ve just admitted that I enjoy licking squirrels or pooping in jam jars.  But what people don’t realize is that Pa...
 
Adventure
 
Bibi Jawindi-1
Bibi Jawindi-1
Bibi Jawindi-1

Detained in Bahawalpur

Nearly two months have passed since my ill-fated journey to Bahawalpur, since my sixteen-hour CIA interrogation in a dirty, Pakistani hotel room, since they threatened to shut down my website if I publicized the story. I’m hopi...
 
Adventure
 
Rukn i Alam-1
Rukn i Alam-1
Rukn i Alam-1

Flirting with Afghanistan: The Smugglers’ Bazaar

It was a dangerous idea to try to go to Peshawar, but its Siren’s call promised romance, intrigue, and adventure: a legendary Silk Road city of traders, warriors, and poets, a place where a hairy Pashtun might offer you four ca...

 
Adventure
 
goatcover
goatcover
goatcover

GoatBall Superstar, Afghan Hero

The afternoon sun slanted across the District Chief of Police’s office as he sat glowering at me in his oversized armchair, gnashing his teeth like some rabid, Pashtun muppet. Sitting in his line of fire, I smiled at nothing in...
 
Culture
 
Pashtunwali-3
Pashtunwali-3
Pashtunwali-3

The Way of the Pashtunwali

For this week’s special Photo Travelogue, there won’t be any happy postcards. Nor will I be striking wacky, douchebag poses in front of historical buildings. Nor will you see the usual cheery colors and smiling kiddies from the...
 
Culture
 
Border Closing-1-2
Border Closing-1-2
Border Closing-1-2

Last* Wednesday Wanderings: The Closing of the Border

I would have posted this last Wednesday, but I just so happened to be ankle-deep in yak shit with some nomadic, yurt-dwelling family, near the border of the vowel-impaired nation of Kyrgyzstan… But better late than never....

 
Adventure
 
Kidnapped in Alipur-1
Kidnapped in Alipur-1
Kidnapped in Alipur-1

Kidnapped in Alipur

I find it ironic, and embarrassingly hypocritical, that not even a week after I ranted about how you should never get into cars with strangers, I turned around and did exactly that. It was noon, and the heat of June shimmered a...
 
Culture
 
Kalash Joshi-15
Kalash Joshi-15
Kalash Joshi-15

The Joshi Festival

Laughing in the face of Travel Warnings and a threat from the Taliban, I head north into Pakistan’s Northwest Frontier Province of Khyber Pakhtunkhwa, to visit the indigenous Black Kalash Tribe and to see their annual Jos...
 
Adventure
 
Taliban Grimace-2
Taliban Grimace-2
Taliban Grimace-2

Walnuts & Machine Guns: A Taliban Tale

A man with a machine gun has been following me for the last five days. His name is Zia, and he is very, very shy, especially for a man with a machine gun. He first started shadowing me in the town of Chitral, near the end of my...

 
Backpackology 101
 
go the other way feat image
go the other way feat image
go the other way feat image

To Go the Other Way

“Our battered suitcases were piled on the sidewalk again; we had longer ways to go. But no matter, the road is life…” – Jack Kerouac In a wild outpost town of eastern Baltistan, two days’ journey by road into the jagged, ...